Intro

Balinakill is an hotel this reviewer discovered some years ago, before joining this illustrious Guide. It was palpably obvious at the time that owners Angus and Susan Macdiarmid simply adored looking after their guests. In fact we'll say right away that we've awarded them our RedH™ hospitality distinction and the hotel has been nominated several times in the romantic category of The Scottish Hotels of the Year Awards. For it is just that: both friendly and a fine escape.

Testifying to these fine qualities were the couple we engaged in conversation recently at the hotel who informed us that they had "stayed here four years ago and loved it", and had decided to come again ‘on spec’ to see whether Angus and Susan were still here. They were not to be disappointed and, having only planned on staying a night, they ended up staying a further three.

Upon our arrival this time we met again with John Macallum, general factotum, fount of historical knowledge all about Balinakill, and very much an integral part of the whole operation: it was good to be back and share a chat. Time passes slow in this lovely area and around this gracious old house. But then, that's one of the reasons you'd want to come here... as opposed to, oh, Las Vagas, perhaps.

A wee bit of history

Balinakill is a listed Victorian mansion and is steeped in history. Sir William Mackinnon, the founder of the British East India Steam Navigation Company, no less, took up residence in 1867. It was he who was responsible for the construction of the original part of the village of Clachan. And whenever his 'presence was required' at his Glasgow office one of his own steam ships would be summoned so as to avoid him taking the tiresome and only land route open to others. What can you say? Style!

During WWII, Balinakill played host to the prestigious Kiel School of Dumbarton, a boys’ boarding school, and it’s not hard to see why they enjoyed being in a place like this.

The hotel

There are real elements of grandeur here. Chandeliers hang from the high-ceilinged corridors, there are full length gilt-framed mirrors, oil paintings, an antler set or two, a widely sweeping ornate oak staircase, the odd display cabinet here and there filled with some silver and curios. Wonderful stuff. It's shabby-chic or faded posh, and that helps the whole show stay nice and relaxed.

Curiously, there are two drawing rooms, ‘one up and one down’; it’s very Scottish to have the one up, don’t you know. Anyway, the downstairs one, in constant use by the residents, is known as the Oak Room and, as one might assume, it is full of said wood from the rich panelled walls to the finely carved mantelpiece. A warm room, fuelled by a roaring, glass-fronted wood burning stove, it can all certainly send you off into the Land of Nod after a day sampling the pure Kintyre air… especially if you’re rooted to one of the 70 year-old and deeply comfy sofas.

Pre-dinner drinks, post-dinner coffee and liqueurs are served here, or in the hotel's small Bar. Now, like all Scottish bars, 100% smoke-free, this cosy room is compact but certainly useful to have.

The upstairs Drawing Room ounge is a peaceful spot. It overlooks a 6-acre garden of lawn, rhododendrons and daffodils in season, and is in the main used by those seeking solitude. Sometimes there are exhibitions of local art.

Got the picture? But it just doesn’t stop there; no indeed.

Bedrooms

Room 3 was allocated to the Guide, period furnished as one would expect, with cast iron radiators and all. A bay window offered a view to Islay. And who needs curtains, when you have such excellent oak shutters?

Ah, and what about the bed? – a period four poster, no less, in fine condition and fully set up with a superb new mattress; it certainly made for a most comfortable night. From our experience not enough emphasis is made of a good mattress: why pay for the privilege of sleeping in an uncomfortable bed, we ask ourselves. The Macdiarmids are fully aware of this aspect of hospitality and have provided many of their guest rooms with good quality new mattresses. Excellent.

The bathroom was a Victorian masterpiece. The original bath was deep enough to be the shallow end of a swimming pool. To port there was a ‘pin shower’ with jets located on four different levels and supported by an oak frame; bolted onto the side are Shank’s controls, more akin to something you might find on a steam engine. What a terrific contraption.

Sadly, the original shower mechanism was not in operation but the owners continue to look for someone to re-activate it. But in a tribute to Victorian plumbing we confirm we have never before witnessed such a torrent of water as fills the bath here, so it would be inadvisable to leave it unwatched for too long!

Rooms 1, 2, 4 and 6 are very much in the style of the Victorian era, and if you have a penchant towards the regal fraternity then you might like to consider Room 4 as it is reputed that King Albert of the Belgians has slept here on several occasions. All other 6 bedrooms are more of a contemporary nature and are nicely comfortable.

Plus+Point

Many bedrooms can offer you the rare luxury of a real open log fire! Few hotels can offer this and none we know of can offer so many rooms with this wonderful feature.

Dining

We’ll set the scene: an eclectic dining room, linen dressed tables, crystal glasses everywhere waiting to be charged, and Celtic music wafting softly over the conversation.

Angus is the chef and he knows a thing or two about food. In fact we recently saw him on a Gaelic cookery show on TV. Whenever he can he’ll use genuinely local produce, and this is well described on the menu. His principal suppliers are from Kintyre and the Isle of Islay, with the venison coming from the Glenresdale Estate, it preferably being Sikka deer.

His culinary motto is 'not to use any sauce that will prevent the diner from experiencing the full flavours' of what he considers 'the best natural produce' from his very doorstep.

He also knows a thing or two about seafood, having had his own langoustine boats up in his homeland of Harris for many a year. Hence it was with little surprise that we decided upon the Mousseline of Gigha Scallops in a White Wine Sauce. Lightly poached, sensual, thrilling; enough said. We’re off to the races now: Roast Rack of Islay Lamb accompanied by Mustard Mash, Fresh Vegetables and a Port Reduction Sauce. This we indulgently washed down with a more than acceptable glass of Chateau Treytins St. Emilion Montagne. This is how lamb should taste; cooked, in your reviewer’s mind, to perfection.

And do we have room for anything else? Of course – no wimps here. For chocoholics, Angus’ Organic Chocolate Tart and Home-made Ice Cream was just too good an opportunity to pass up: wafer thin pastry and a fine wedge of chocolate richness. Replete, or zat as the Germans would say, that was that; wonderful.

Vegetarian? Something very much worthy of mention is that for vegetarians the hotel offers a choice of 3 starters and 3 main courses, charged at a reduced rate.

We have awarded a SilverPlate™ which means that we recommend dining-in at this hotel. “This is our second visit and we can only say we will be back for a third and fourth visit, the food and hospitality were fab!”, said Murray and Irene from Sheffield, England.

Breakfast

is a sound affair with all the usual suspects on the list and, of course, there's Angus’ legendary porridge... according to his wife Susan, it’s his signature dish. The sausages aren’t too dusty either: “the best sausages in the world”, according to the modest maestro. Early risers (for example CalMac ferry passengers) can help themselves to the Continental breakfast, or a pre-packed breakfast can be collected.

Leisure

Alternative medical therapies from Indian head massage to reflexology are available and these are available by appointment. In the quiter season Balinakill promotes all-inclusive special offers for therapy weekends. Take a day trip to Inverary Castle and its lovely gardens, or take the ferry over to the Isle of Bute and visit stunning, dazzling, unforgettable Mount Stuart, the ancestral home of the Marquis of Bute. In April / May Bute hosts a leading Jazz festival and in late August you can experience the world-famous Cowal Highland Gathering.

Useful Links

Undiscovered Scotland

The Reviewer’s View by Tony Fasson

“The key to hospitality lies in the hands of the owners and management. At Balinakill the proprietors understand well the rules and runes of a Highland welcome and care. They go out of their way to look after you, and nothing at all has changed in that sense since we first encountered the place. The house is full of character and interest and in the hands of the Macdiarmids it is a safe and sound recommendation indeed. It is informal and it isn't perfect, but... it's the Real McCoy.”

Awards / Look & Book Box™ status This hotel has been reviewed by the Guide and any HotelReview™ | Awards are detailed above. Any star quality grading has been awarded by the Scottish Tourist Board. As the hotel is a Member of HotelReview™ | Scotland the Look & Book Box™ features are ONLINE.

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Disability Information: Unsuitable for wheelchair-users, sorry.

Ghàidhlig: Bidh Ghàidhlig ri fhaighinn an seo a dh’aithghearr! Tapa leibh.

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