Intro

The Isle of Iona is special and has been for centuries. Come to this world-famous isle via the west coast port of Oban from where a Cal-Mac ferry will first take you to the Isle of Mull. After a scenic trans-Mull drive of about 50 minutes, a smaller red-funnelled ferry will take 10 minutes to take you (but not your car) from Fionnphort to Baile Mòr, the main village on Iona. Felix Mendelsshon wrote his Hebrides Overture after a visit to nearby Staffa, and in the music that flowed from his inspiration we can hear the call of these isles. The Argyll Hotel is one of only two on Iona. It's one of the most characteristic little hotels in Scotland. Owners Daniel Morgan and Claire Bachellerie have established themselves over recent years and have enhanced the hotel carefully, especially with regard to environmental issues.

A wee bit of history

Ten minutes, that’s all, and if that, but to come here is to come on one of the great pilgrimages. The spectacular and beautiful landscape has imbued some 1,500 years of Christian history. Ì Chaluim Cille is the island’s name in Gaelic, ‘the island of St Columba’... although as so often in Gaelic, there are plenty of spelling variations. Find out plenty more at the website of the Iona Community, an international grouping who have, over the last century, greatly restored the 12th century Iona Abbey that stands now where Columba did when he, at the start of his well documented missions, arrived in 563AD. Fragments remain of his 6th century buildings, that’s all, while St Oran’s Chapel dates back almost a thousand years as does the remarkable high cross of St Martin that stands still in situ at the door of the cathedral. Perhaps the most remarkable thing about Iona today is that it is absolutely alive with people, individuals on their personal journeys, taking time. Christianity is here and here in a very modern sense. But of that faith or not you will find that this place can uplift your heart and or spirit.

The hotel

Sit in the Sun Lounge (one of this writers favourite rooms, anywhere) and absorb it all: books, plants and flowers, peace and some well-chosen music drifting through; gaze out over the waves to Ben More with its truly spectacular sea cliffs. There's a hint of sophistication about the place, built in 1867; staff seem well-travelled and committed. When you step over the red granite threshold and into the Hallway, with the smell of sand and the sound of the sea dominating, the senses are immediately comforted. And reassured. Like the isle itself, the hotel is most definitely Scottish – but influenced so very positively by what others have brought here. There are several public rooms so you'll find ample space to relax. The front-facing East and West Lounges have open fires, books, games, comfortable chairs. The South Lounge has a PC for free internet access. Read about a positive environmental approach at the hotel’s website, embracing 'the entire range of activities surrounding the hotel’s day to day management' and 'a firm understanding of community… wherever possible all tenders, produce and resources are acquired locally'. The Argyll has been awarded the gold level of the Green Tourism Business Scheme. There’s Fair Trade tea in the pot and the heart's in the right place.

Bedrooms

The hotel has 16 comfortable bedrooms, all decorated in a fresh, tastefully simple style. Sometimes bright colours are used, but we saw no busy patterns to distract from the peace. There is also the Argyll Suite which offers you a spacious yellow and blue bedroom with double and single beds – and a balcony, a wonderful sea-facing lounge with features such as a man-sized hammock at the window, a kitchen area, mini-bar, a breakfast table and bench made from naturally shaped pieces of wood, spotlights, big sofa and a Morsø cast iron stove. To sit in this lounge by the open fire, TV to hand if required, and to relax with a cup of tea, and look forward to a few stress-free days here is not much less than bliss. Some 15 of the 16 bedrooms have en-suite loos and the suite’s has a walk-in shower, romantically uplit bathtub and (like all rooms) luxury handmade toiletries from the Isle of Coll plus soft white towels. Some rooms have an old-fashioned Roberts radio. The Guide has stayed in several rooms on various stays and, of course, those to the front are to be preferred. We recall a lazy stay in room 4 with its double windows, open at night in summer for air and for the sound of the waves. Nothing else would disturb us, you see... the last ferry, even at the height of summer, leaves the island at teatime and with the drawing up of that ‘bridge’ only a limited number of fortunate residents and visitors, horses with their for-rent cart transportation, rasping corncrakes (an unforgettable sound of Iona) and rattling cycles are left. And the sonorous bell of the abbey, which sounds an invitation to evening service at 9pm, travels the half mile to the hotel and is the finest of sounds.

Dining

Organic this and organic that make the menu special and the unexpected, imaginative twists contributed by the chef add fun. The style is sophisticated rustic natural. The Dining Room is full of character: nicely spaced tables with old-fashioned chairs are comfortable. There’s a piano by an open fire which burns when it’s cold and, in the less busy seasons there's space for sofas by the fire where you can sit and relax pre or post-dinner (or lunch – food is available pretty well all day). The wine list gets has an exceptionally fairly-priced selection, one that draws upon small producers and features less well-known regions. The menu is à la carte and when we last dined offered 7 starters, 5 mains, 2 hot puddings, cheeses, fresh fruit and ice creams / sorbets. A simple Smoked Salmon Salad was fresh as can be; Pea and Ham Soup (the alternative being Leap Year Corn Soup which we'd had for lunch and it was tasty) was homely. Beetroot Gratin, with cuts of fresh beetroot topped with Macadamia nuts and a blue cheese topping, all grilled till roasted, was a flavour-packed starter. Aromatic Venison Daube, a sort of stew affair involving much simmering in red wine and veg broths, was delicious; Organic Highland Drover Fillet Steak with Port and Onion Marmalade was filling and moreish; Spicy Lamb Parcel came as minced lean lamb wrapped, together with feta cheese, in filo pastry and served with a dip of yogurt and cucumber, Greek-style. For desserts our table enjoyed Orange Castle (warm sponge with citrus juice and cream) and the Scot’s Little Apple Tart, being a roundel of apples and marzipan served with luscious whipped cream.

Breakfast

Tea, toast, fruit juice, etc., are all brought to the table. Good porridge and yoghurts are offered. The menu offers a 'Highland Fry-Up' including venison sausage, but we opted for the Eggs Blackstone with a poached free-range egg with lightly sautéed spinach on a toasted muffin topped with Hollandaise sauce. Nicely grilled (and with a sample venison sausage just to try) it was a delicious start to the day, and not too heavy. Kippers, smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, or pancakes with maple syrup are all available too. An excellent selection.

Leisure

Apart from all the heritage and history, cycling and birdwatching, the island has an 18 hole gold course, a pretty and pretty wild one, and one that is entirely free to play. The hotel can loan or hire you clubs. When they remember, they are supposed to charge £8 a day but guests usually get off with it. Cows and sheep accompany players and they leave their own obstacles. The situation, by the Bay at the Back of the Ocean and in the island machair, is naturally beautiful.

Links

We hope that you find the following local links helpful:

Caledonian Macbrayne ferries

Isle of Iona website

The Iona Community

Staffa boat trips (Fingal’s Cave)

The Reviewer’s View Gary McLean

“Just possibly you can tell from this Review that this place appeals enormously to me... to me and to the many who come to Iona and wish they could stay longer. But I can think of few who would not enjoy a break here; even the Las Vegas-types need a change and a rest. Surely. This inn is both adorable and admirable and got many votes in 'The Good for the Soul Award' category at a recent Scottish Hotels of the Year Awards. It's deeply relaxing. Tasty, healthy food and those comfortable lounges – all overlooking the sea, and within earshot of the bell of the remarkable abbey. Iona would be a special destination even without any hospitality. But with the Argyll Hotel the isle is even more captivating.”

Note This hotel was awarded a listing by HotelReview™ | Scotland and has been fully reviewed by the Guide; this includes a full overnight stay followed up by quarterly quality control checks and ongoing feedback from readers. As a reviewed hotel, its Look & Book Box™ features are ONLINE and any awards made by the Guide are published above. The star grading has been awarded by the Scottish Tourist Board, VisitScotland.

Your opinion? There’s a link to a Reader’s Review form at the top and left side of this page. It only takes a moment to send the Guide your views via the small panel that will pop-up. You can be as brief or as fulsome as you wish! Your views go to the Editor, who will acknowledge your response within a few days. He may edit feedback. Reports do not go directly online. You can be named or remain anonymous. At Scotland’s most-read hotel guide we greatly value the tremendous feedback we have from our readers. Thanks!

Disability Information: Unsuitable for wheelchairs, sorry.

Facebook

Stumble It!

Delicious