Intro

Sutherland is a northern land of unfading beauty. It is unarguably Scotland’s wildest big-country: uncompromising, surprising and captivating in its form. Drive to Inverness then head west for Ullapool, which takes an hour or so by car. Then set the compass north and enjoy the landscape revealing itself bend by bend as the sinuous road follows the contours of coast and hill. Soon you’ll enter Assynt, a determinedly crofting district of Sutherland famed among climbers and geologists – and it’s not hard to see why. Like great dinosaur backs the hulks of Canisp and Suilven, Stac Pollaidh and their outlyers rise above a green moonscape jewelled with lochans and bounded by the green-grey Atlantic.

It is said that when you stand on the top of Suilven you can hear the very mountain disintegrate as, rock by rock, the brittle stone cracks in the cold, the wind, or the sun. This is a landscape in which man works a hard living from the land and a rich if dangerously-won harvest from the sea. Of course, today, the tourists come and many livelihoods depend upon the usually seasonal trade. Lochinver, home of well-known Highland Stoneware, is one of the ports of call, the white and stone houses of the village, some pretty, some hardy, scattered around the mouth of Loch Inver, the jetty and ice-making factory for the fishing business jutting into the harbour. A sturdy community physically – it was blasted by a severe hurricane in winter 2004 with winds up to 130mph – and yet fragile socially in population number, out here on the edge, it harbours itself more than a few hidden quirks and delights. Of which, we are about to tell you about one: The Albannach.

The verse at the top of the review is by Donald Munro Graham, from Poetry Pairtly Scots, and kind of sets the right tone for The Albannach which, by the by, won the Fabulously Scottish Dining Award 2008 at The Scottish Hotels of the Year Awards and also top honours in 2007 in bedroom design.

The hotel

Albannach is of course a Gaelic word. It means 'Scotsman’ but in fact is something of a collective noun for Scottishness and is the opposite of Sassanach which refers to England. It's an attractive white building, well enough signposted yet very well tucked-away into an elevated fold in the hillside overlooking Lochinver with the ‘sugar-loaf’ backdrop of Suilven dominating its outlook. It has a slightly Edwardian feel to it – in fact it’s a shade older, dating from 1889 – but really the overwhelming sensation upon first acquaintance is pleasure – mixed with relief, you’ve come a long way baby to get here.

The lion rampant, the royal Scottish flag, atop the house snaps in the breeze. To the front a tidy Terrace with tubs of flowers and, inside, the Sun Lounge conservatory are the first parts of the hotel to be explored and it’s all good stuff already. Sturdy teak furniture with broad green umbrellas were in use as early as March; a midge-eating machine effected, we're told, by Eau de Ewe and Essence of Cow fragrances (are we to believe this?) keeps the wee buggers at bay wonderfully effectively.

The conservatory with its flowers, books, glossy mags, stag’s head, panelling, comfortable sofas and chairs is much used in day and evening and is the main sitting area. It's happily augmented by a charming Snug Lounge off one end where a crackling log fire, warm panelling, leather sofas and Oriental rug makes for a splendid hideaway. Which is really what this small hotel is: an exemplary escape, and one with the keenest sense of place.

In his latest 2008 guidebook Scotland the Best author Peter Irvine gives The Albannach 2 of his coveted ‘red ticks’ of approval in the ‘Most Scottish Hotels’ section. Creaky old wooden staircases lead to the bedrooms. Going up you’ll pass pieces of stained glass, the occasional stuffed stoat, interesting pictures and pieces of furniture sought out by owners Colin and Lesley at auction. But somehow it isn’t cluttered. To the right of the small hallway with its visitors’ book packed with praise is the Dining Room, about which more below. Throughout the hotel are beautiful Celtic-style lamps, mirrors, key fobs and candlesticks worked in pewter or copper, studded with coloured glass stones, made by Colin’s brother Allan Craig of Arc Designs, a Liberty named craftsman. Overall, the combination of quality and whimsy is rather magical.

Bedrooms

The main news is that the hotel has been creating Suites of the highest design calibre, with a striking third one opening in early May 2008: the Byre Suite, with outdoor Jacuzzi hot-tub on a private slate terrace overlooking Suilven. This suite, which offers considerable pravacy, also has an egg-shaped bath, separate dressing room, conservatory sitting room, private terrace / garden. It'll be one of THE rooms to book in Scotland for a sexy, romantic, indulgent escape.

Elsewhere, the Loft Suite is superb. And the award-winning Penthouse Suite is a series of airy, eaved shapes akin to a free-form tent... some 50 feet from the ground, this singular penthouse has vast views of Lochinver Bay and the mountains Suilven and Canisp. Its sitting room has a high quality sofa-bed, armchair and custom-made oak and glass tables usually topped with a white rose. Colours and fabrics throughout are 'sea and sand' in tone with Farrow & Ball soft pale greys and neutrals, linen wallpapers and a silk-upholstered antique wing chair by the bedroom window. The toilet / bidet / vanity room, a separate room from the bathroom with its over-sized walk-in shower, continues the coastal theme with aqua-tinted glass and limestone porcelain floors heated from underneath. The stairs to the room are steep but the understated calmness of the space is so very worth it.

There are 2 other bedrooms in the main house. Room 1 offers a four-poster bed, black marble fireplace, dark green tartan fabrics and extravagant pale bronze silk curtains, carved chairs, dressing area and a roomy bathroom with overbath plus douche shower and fragrant toiletries. The view from the bed to the mountains is a rare treat. Room 2 is smaller, but is a beautiful room: white-on-white with white velvet curtains, the same wild view, a quality double bed, dressing table and open hanging space. All rooms have pale, self-coloured carpets tea / coffee trays with fresh milk in jugs, flatscreen TVs, phones, dainty fresh flowers hand-worked pewter lamps or accessories.

But really, while the rooms are a joy, and we’d stay in any one of them for a month, we tend to think that you’ll be downstairs enjoying the conviviality of the place and not glued to your TV set, however chic or flat it might be. If you’re not, you ought to be. Besides, you’ll want to meet your engaging hosts, Colin – usually in a Jacobite shirt and kilt – and Lesley, who isn’t. Both have worked incredibly hard over many years to shape their hotel and it stands successful testament to their personalities, character and multiple skills (not to mention humour).

Dining

Dining is available 7 days, including Mondays. Trademark fresh white roses stand out against the rich matt red walls of the Dining Room which feature framed artefacts and pictures: there’s one of Rabbie Burns, one of a Highland scene, and other old pictures, documents, instruments and whatnots.

Marvellously sturdy old polished black floorboards are topped with a thick, elegant Oriental rug. Tables are set reasonably well apart and the high-backed carved chairs with their tapestry inserts are both bold and comfortable. On chilly days a log fire crackles (church candles at other times) in the big black marble fireplace while, on the mantelpiece, is a full-scale sword with basket guard. It has been used, we know, to slice the cork from a bottle of Champers on more than one occasion, but let's not tell the Health & Safety people about that.

Dinner is a set, daily-changing 5 course affair, with extras, founded on the fabulous local produce. On Mondays a seafood supper is offered. Tip: let The Albannach know in advance if there’s anything you don’t like. Lesley’s handwritten menu appears in a weighty frame and is passed around diners before dinner. Dinner is served on wonderful, locally-made Highland Stoneware plates and platters. Silver cutlery and big thin glasses, fine napery, black aproned staff and the above-mentioned white roses all set a suitable romantic stage.

Dinner Review

The fire is lit, the guests descend around 7ish, and the evening begins. The conservatory bustles with chatter – the shape of the house encourages guests to mix and blether. Colin helps with that, too. We sat round the corner in the snug where another fire flickered and gave off the most aromatic of scents – nothing unusual for a country dweller but for jaded urban nostrils the sensory pleasures of a sniff of woodsmoke are not to be underestimated. Or sniffed at.

Big sofas, plenty of comfort, and a rather sassy local lass was soon on hand with menu, wine list and the requested Sutherland-distilled Clynelish from the whisky menu. Two canapés appeared on a tiny stoneware dish, one involving quails egg, the other locally-smoked salmon on a tiny blini. A noisy American (we do love Americans but this one really was noisy) and a demure English partner joined us. Part of the fun of the place. Just when we thought things couldn’t get better a face popped round the door and asked us if we’d like an oyster: served chilled from a platter, green linen napkin provided, it slipped down in a wash of freshness.

Soon settled in the dining room, the amuse bouche – a little portion of earthy soup – started proceedings well. The starter was scripted as Mousseline of Lochinver Turbot with Lobster, Langoustine and Sauce Vierge... and was absolutely stunning. A tower of mousse, refined, and yet with a ravishingly satisfying texture, flavours all intact, lifted by the simplicity of the lively sauce. The next course, Warm Tartlet of Goats’ Cheese and Basil with Red Pepper Coulis brought richness, shortness and calories, and again was delicious.

The main, which could perhaps have done with a green vegetable accompaniment, was a perfectly delectable creation: Roast Fillet of Hill-Fed Highland Lamb on Puy Lentils and Root Vegetables with Crushed Beetroot and Port Sauce. Deftly cooked, vanishingly moreish, aromatic and healthy.

Two French cheeses preceded dessert: Vanilla Parfait with Plums poached in Sauternes and Spiced Orange Sauce. This parfait was served on the button temperature-wise, with a deeply chilled middle and luscious, creamy outer. Tea or coffee with generous petits fours in the conservatory ended one of this reviewer’s best dinners of the year. Flavour reigned.

In our last review we stated - 'A Michelin star on the way? Probably not, despite deserving it, knowing Michelin whose inspectors are less common in Scotland than Gaelic-speaking pink flamingos'.

So we are delighted to announce that Albannach has just been awarded a Michelin star in the The Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2009

The kitchen here also gets our very top food distinction, the PlatinumPlate™ and at 2 rosettes the AA are seriously undermarking the cuisine here, and we've told them so. Repeatedly. Repeatedly.

is as you would expect and hope: excellent porridge, fresh fruit, meltingly-fresh local smoked haddock, homemade bread, gooseberry jam from a nearby croft, loose-leaf tea from a chunky local-made teapot.

Links

We hope that you find these local links helpful:

Discover Assynt

Highland Stoneware

Suilven 360-degree panorama

Lochinver

Culag Woodland

Receptions / Events

The Albannach can cater for small groups for special occasions and can offer exclusive use.

The Reviewer’s View Gary McLean

“Unless you’re looking for a steamy spa or a golf course, it’s hard to fault what's on offer at The Albannach. Guests have told us they simply fall in love with the place and use anticipation of return as an incentive to keep going on dull days. The atmosphere is the result of the owners’ life-affirming approach to things. The hotel physically is the result of years of work. The food is superb. The rooms are stylishly Scottish with the new, uncluttered suites calm oases of luxury. I think it one of the best half dozen country hotels in Scotland.”

Readers’ Reviews

"When you get to my age -and I'm just past the half century now for goodness sake, you know when something is just.... right. In this world of mediocrity and meretricious hype, 'The Albannach' leaps out like a silver salmon from a peaty mountain river. Walk up through the garden to the hotel on a still, scented highland evening, settle down in a deep armchair in the south-facing conservatory and just feel your jangled nerves soothed and your tense shoulders relax. Quiet good taste and excellence are clearly the touchstone here. A perfect gin and tonic with fresh-cut lime and you are presented with the menu: tonight's safari round the essence and flavour of fresh, highland, quality food. From hill, loch and river. From the gin-clear waters washing the wild, island-strewn coastline. If you have eaten at The Albannach before, your mind will start to conjur the treats to come. If you haven't, do it soon- but for heaven's sake let's just keep it our secret...." - L. E. Muir (Scotland), 2007

"I booked this hotel for a big birthday expecting that it would be good but, in fact, it was outstanding. The cooking of superb Scottish ingredients is highly imaginative and the accommodation is of a high standard. We have not stayed in a better hotel (perhaps we should regard it as a hotel with rooms since the food was so fabulous). The hosts are welcoming and informative whilst the service is pleasant and informal. We were so impressed we booked it for my wife's next big birthday! " - Mike Fraser (England), 2007

"A real treasure. Location, bedrooms, fittings, service and - especially - food were superb. Our meals were of the highest calibre and just the right amounts of everything. An incredible experience. A most special place." - Mr Bob H. (England), 2007

"Continuing the highest standards in welcome, rooms and superb food night after night!" - George Pincus (England), 2006

"Excellent accommodation. We enjoyed room 5, 'The Byre', next to main house. Food was from a set menu but they catered for my allergies no probs. Quite delicious and imaginitive local produce. Really caring, nice people too." - Michael & Jennifer Woods (Scotland), 2006

“I was delighted when we were planning our trip to Scotland, that Bon Appetite came out with a Scottish issue. Many choices of hotels were listed for us to consider, and Scotland Magazine portrayed the northwestern section of Scotland as having the most sensational scenery. We chose the Albannach as it seemed to fit our needs. In fact we reserved our rooms about 9 months before we arrived. With the hotel being written up in the magazine, we expected a number of American to calling for reservations.
Driving in the northwestern part of Scotland is exciting as around each bend is another wonderful view of the sea, a mountain range or a quaint town. We drove in to Lochinver and found the Albannach. Leslie and her cat met us in the Conservatory, then ushered us up to a room overlooking the harbor with an outstanding view of the mountains. What a comfortable room with lovely antique dressing table and wardrobe.
Before dinner all the guests gathered in the ‘Snug’ and Conservatory… for conversation. How many Americans were we going to met? Imagine, no other Americans! - and a chance to visit with lovely guests from England and Scotland. Delicious, outstanding, imaginative, very creative: all words to describe the dinners and breakfasts served during the three days we were there. Monkfish, red deer, halibut, raw oysters, homemade breads and desserts, unusual cheese courses and unique blends of vegetables. All the meals are served on Highland Stone Pottery, different pieces and colors for the various courses.
Colin has selected a number of wines to accompany the meals, unique and with a wide price range to satisfy all his guests. After seeing the Highland Stoneware pottery we had to purchase several pieces to remind us of the wonderful meals, the comfortable room, outstanding scenery, and the interesting conversation with other guests. Would we go back? Yes! This is a Scottish hotel where the host and hostess and their staff are extremely accommodating, proud of their unique and excellent tasting food, and want you to enjoy yourself while staying in their hotel. A wonderful Scottish experience!!!”- Jane and John C. (MN, USA), 2006

“Imaginative and friendly, immaculate service plus well-balanced food. A little gem!” - N.M., 2006

“Fantastic. We’ve stayed here 5 times now – it keeps getting better, if that’s possible! The food is excellent and the owners are brilliant people.” - I.S., 2006

“If only we could find a place like this nearer home! We’ve been prepared to drive 480 miles regularly over the last 10 years to experience the cuisine and hospitality of this restful establishment.” - P.R. & M.W., 2006

Note This hotel was awarded a listing by HotelReview™ | Scotland and has been fully reviewed by the Guide; this includes a full overnight stay followed up by quarterly quality control checks and ongoing feedback from readers. As a reviewed hotel, its Look & Book Box™ features are ONLINE and any awards made by the Guide are published above. The star grading has been awarded by the Scottish Tourist Board, VisitScotland.

Your opinion? There’s a link to a Reader’s Review form at the top and left side of this page. It only takes a moment to send the Guide your views via the small panel that will pop-up. You can be as brief or as fulsome as you wish! Your views go to the Editor, who will acknowledge your response within a few days. He may edit feedback. Reports do not go directly online. You can be named or remain anonymous. At Scotland’s most-read hotel guide we greatly value the tremendous feedback we have from our readers. Thanks!

Disability Information: Unsuitable for wheelchair-using guests, sorry.

Ghàidhlig: Bidh Ghàidhlig ri fhaighinn an seo a dh’aithghearr! Tapa leibh.

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