Morning at The Airds and the birds are responsible for the only sounds; chirping chaffinches and the questioning murmur of wildfowl. This Relais & Chateaux member hotel, many Highland moons ago a ferry inn, sits at the edge of the waters of the Sound of Lismore, by a small bay, separated from enviably-situated gardens only by a very quiet village road. The garden rolls in green stripes down to a strand of tall firs by the rugged bay. There’s a new croquet lawn. Across the water, the Isle of Lismore and, beyond, the mountains of Morvern.

This is why you come to the Highlands: the peace, the serene beauty, the heritage... and there's much of that in this locality. But why do guests return year after year to this relatively expensive, relatively small hotel where there is a sense of exactness? Well, we shall endeavour to explain. Shaun and Jenny McKivragan run the hotel with skill and new investment was made again recently in fine new suites. The AA names the Airds among its top hotels. Robert McKay is manager.

The Guide booked a stay and on an atmospherically misty and rainbow-brightened afternoon we made our way through Glencoe and further by about half an hour to where the back road to Port Appin village leaves the main route from Ballachulish to Oban. The typically Highland settlement straggles along the road – there is no lack of space here – and then the inn comes into view. A conservatory to the front is full of flowers, while in the evenings tall modern windproof lanterns have candles flickering here, welcomingly.

As we walked from car to front door, scents delighted jaded urban nostrils: the sheer freshness, the fragrant pine trees and the smell of wood-smoke from log fires. Enter via the smart Sun Lounge with its beautiful Victorian glazed tiled floor where a row of green wellies await explorers’ feet, where tartan-cushioned wicker chairs face the loch, tubs of hyacinths, nasturtiums and other blooms add colour, begonias and geraniums blossom, and those candles burned. Inside the Hall, in an eye-flick, you can tell that despite the immaculate yet inn-like exterior this hotel is top-notch. Original artworks everywhere; restful and classy colours, the chimes of an old clock, the smell of polish and flowers, glimpses of log fires and graceful public rooms.

There are 2 lounges – a smaller, charmingly matt painted pitch-pine panelled Sitting Room where Fred the stag looks down from above a flickering log fire, and a luxurious Drawing Room where rich colours and plush arrangements of sofas and armchairs extend an invitation. There are excellent pictures, interesting objet d’art, fine new carpeting and rugs, fresh flowers, books, games and an ineffable sense of peace.

Before dinner we sipped aperitifs by the fire and savoured and trio of canapés: crab croquette; tomato and pesto; salmon tartare. After dinner we reclined in luxury in the Drawing Room, sipping fine coffee and nibbling exquisite petit fours. Bowls of primroses, rhododendrons and pale chrysanthemums added sweetly to the feel of the place. All your senses will tell you that this is a quality hotel set in a quality landscape. And with free wi-fi internet access in most bedrooms and in the public rooms such as the comfortable lounges, you can keep in touch. If you must.

There are 11 rooms, all decorated in an upmarket country house style with fine fabric drapes, pleasing wallpapers, antiques, lamps and quality prints or oils on the wall. Those restyled this year have a more contemporary touch and you can now choose a balcony or terrace feature, too. In all there are 2 Standard Rooms, 6 Superior Rooms and 3 Suites. A registration form sits out on the bed: there's no formal check-in, simply fill in the form, leave it on the bed and, while you dine, and as housekeepers turn down your bed and close the curtains, your details are uplifted.

The Master Suite has gorgeous, silvery fabrics in soft sage tones, a separate lounge with its own big TV / DVD (good library of DVDs available) and a stunning bathroom with a huge glass-walled shower wet room (with body jets), twin sinks and a bath with waterproof TV. The suite has its own private balcony facing the woods to the rear, an area that's often a suntrap. The Loch Suite has a separate sitting area, offers a flat screen TV / DVD player, desks, sofa with plush cushions, CD / radio with discs. Its bathroom is large: one wall covered in mirrors, good lighting, plenty of soft white towels, bathrobes, Bulgari toiletries, controllable heating, deep enamel bath plus separate walk-in shower. Bed and bedding are superbly comfortable and fresh. The third of the top-end rooms is the Junior Suite and we like it very much, too. A mix of contemporary and classic styles set against a neutral backgrounds; as in many rooms it has a king-sized bed (can be made into a twin) with quality linens. A private terrace is a real plus, as is the terrific bathroom with its body-jets style shower and bath with TV.

Room 24 is a Superior with a brand-new bathroom with excellent bath with round integral shower unit adding luxury. Room 10 is a light, inviting front-facing pretty (and romantic) room with the same kind of bath / shower with overshower and cradle shower. Other rooms include the elegant room 2, a Double featuring Chinese fabrics and other touches; room 22 is finished in creams and has a king-size bed. On the top floor are two rooms described as 'cute and with fantastic views' - rooms 12 and 14. All rooms are delightfully individual, and all are maintained perfectly. Thorough compendiums are full of ideas for timed drives and day-out routes, and each room features books and magazines. All have a baby decanter of Whisky Mac – whisky and green ginger wine to warm the heart’s cockles, 'a favourite with local sailors'.

Self catering note: fancy a bit more space? The luxury Airds Cottage in the hotel grounds provides top-notch self catering facilities but with the advantage of hotel services. The spacious cottage has 2 double bedrooms and an open-plan fully fitted kitchen, dining area and lounge with satellite TV, DVD and stereo. A minimum stay of 3 nights is possible and rates include full Scottish breakfast in the hotel as well as daily servicing. Dinner in the hotel can of course be booked as required.

Head chef Paul Burns won the coveted Scottish National Hotel Chef of the Year 2007 title at The Scottish Hotels of the Year Awards 2007, a major event attended by the First Minister. Chef Burns is is a very fine chef, a craftsman dedicated to sourcing and using finest produce. Light lunches and afternoon teas are served, while dinner menus are available early and orders are invited by 6pm. The scene is set handsomely for seriously good food. The dining room holds about 40, is low ceilinged, elegantly furnished with impeccable table settings, silverware and linens, fresh flowers and white plate. There's no music.

A starter of Ravioli of Lobster and Langoustine with a Shellfish Sauce was sensational. A velouté soup course was pungent and smokily distinctive. From the choice of 3 main courses we greatly enjoyed superb Best End of Lamb with Braised Shoulder, Gratin Potato, Puy Lentils and a Truffle and Madeira Sauce. Desserts, chosen from a separate menu, offer cold and hot temptations. Cheeses come from a smart trolley.

The wine list is extensive and a good house range starts at reasonable cost. Professional and deferential service adds to the formality of the occasion, and was faultless. The AA has awarded 3 rosettes and new national food guide GoodFoodScotland has awarded a 5 coeur gourmand 'exceptional' rating. This is one of the country’s best dining rooms.

Oatmeal porridge 'with a wee dram' is very popular and gives one a little lift! The breakfast menu isn't extensive but the quality is admirably good: croissants and a selection of toast / bread comes in a basket; preserves (including brilliant raspberry jam and old-fashioned lemon curd) are locally-made; eggs are free-range and sausages very tasty. Kippers, too, if you fancy. Orange juice is genuinely freshly-squeezed. The hotel holds a BreakfastRosette™.

Port Appin lies midway between Oban, with its Victorian architecture, train and ferry terminals (the main gateway to the islands) and Fort William with its host of adventure activities surrounding Ben Nevis. Walking is a major pastime of guests. One path, from Port Appin to North Shian, covers about 2 miles. Hills are steep, but the road is smooth and provides scenes of flocks of sheep with milk-white lambs in spring, deer, and cows grazing serenely. Wild bluebells, primroses, buttercups and the ‘bonnie broom’ are some of the flora. Another footpath, also beginning near the hotel, is identified by a wooden marker that reads ‘Clach Thoull’, Gaelic for ‘hole in the rock’. Cleared by the Scottish Rights of Way Society, this is a gentle half-hour stroll, indeed past a cliff face with a hole, to the pier at Port Appin, from which a small ferry goes to the island of Lismore. You can visit many islands from Oban: Mull is a favourite, and Iona is a jewel in Scotland’s crown. All the Western Highlands are on the doorstep! A packed lunch from the hotel will keep you fortified on your safaris.

The hotel can offer exclusive use terms, and is also suitable for small, select weddings. The manager will liaise with you on all wedding enquiries in conjunction with chef Paul Burns to ensure you get the special day just right. There are several packages from which to choose.

Gary McLean says…
“The Airds Hotel is, in Scottish hotel terms, a little piece of quiet perfection; in some ways quite formal and very classy; in others, extremely friendly, affable and easy-going. An interesting mix. Undeniably romantic, it would appeal to most adult ages, although not best suited for children. It is quiet and luxurious, though neither showy nor ostentatious. The owners are splendid. The food is superb. It is expensive but you get a good return for your investment and time. The hotel is again in 2008 a member of Relais & Châteaux. Small, correct and exemplary.”

Wendy Murray (Scotland), 2008 writes…
"A great experience. Excellence in service, food and surroundings. Can't think of any faults. Best hotel I have stayed in."

Mr & Mrs J. A. Dallas (England), 2007 writes…
"This was our first visit under the new ownership and we were seriously impressed. The standard of service under Martin the manager was impeccable, warm and professional. The cooking was of a standard equal to the best of France. Despite awful weather we thoroughly enjoyed our 3 nights in comfort and the superb atmosphere that the new (to us) owners have established. We shall return."

Kate Rudd (England), 2006 writes…
"Superb location and wonderful service. Very attentive to the needs of all the party, even the little ones! Definitely has that 'extra' special feel to the whole stay."

William Basham (England), 2006 writes…
"Most enjoyable stay. Friendly, attentive staff (nothing too much trouble), comfortable clean rooms, excellent food. We shall return. Strongly recommended."

Jesse Alston (Age 9), 2006 writes…
"The hotel was very nice and the beds were very comfy and the breakfast was lovely."

Ragne Low (England), 2006 writes…
"Rather expensive, restaurant good, what one would expect for the price, a long wait for dinner one night. Breakfast excellent and staff helpful."

K.A. (England), 2006 writes…
"Beautiful setting and beautiful decor. Very attentive staff, who couldn't have been more friendly and helpful. They really put themselves out and were very accommodating with our 4 children. The cuisine was just excellent."

Peter Slate (Scotland), 2006 writes…
“We stayed at Airds Hotel, Port Appin. A wonderful experience. Manager Martin Walls looks after each and every guest with immaculate finesse. He knows what you want before you ask! Keep up the great work.”

Emma Chesters (England), 2005 writes…
“Many a country-house hotel has promised much and delivered little. The Airds Hotel, on the other hand, promises so much yet manages to deliver even more. From the moment you arrive and are met by your delightful hosts, Shaun & Jenny McKivragan, you know you will be well looked after. I must be every hoteliers worst nightmare guest - very fussy, extremely high standards, low tolerance level!! However, I can honestly say that my stays (for I have returned on a number of occasions) at The Airds Hotel have been perfect in every way. From the amazing food produced nightly by chef Paul Burns, to the home-made jams and lemon curd at breakfast time, from the stunningly romantic loch views, to the comprehensive array of books, paintings, information guides and wellingtons provided for guests, your stay is relaxing and peaceful from start to finish. My only complaint? That I left many a pound heavier than when I arrived, due to the delicious meals served in what surely must be one of the Highlands best-kept secrets.”

HAVE YOUR SAY Have you stayed in a Scottish hotel or guest house recently? If so, and you would like to pay it a compliment or let us know of any problems, then there’s a link to a Reader’s Review comment page above left, under the search boxes. Your views go direct to the Editor, who will try to acknowledge your response within a few days if it requires an answer. The Editor may edit / check comments, which do not go directly online. You can be named online, or provide simple initials for publication. We greatly value the very many comments we receive from readers, published or otherwise, and be assured that your views will register with us. Thank you.

REVIEW STATUS & MERIT AWARDS This establishment has now been fully reviewed by the Guide and any HotelReviewScotland.com™ Merit Awards will show above, beneath the address details. We also list the latest ratings and gradings for this business from other guides and organisations. One or more of our experienced reviewer team has stayed at this establishment, spent time with the management, and the Guide is receiving reader and industry input from one or all of: online Reader’s Reviews; Comment Postcards; and Voting in The Scottish Hotels of the Year Awards. All entries are carefully monitored. The lead star grading has been awarded by the Scottish Tourist Board / VisitScotland. As the hotel is a Full Member of HotelReview™ Scotland the Look & Book Box™ links are LIVE.

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