“Since you’re such a big know-it-all about Scottish hotels, which is your favourite place? Suggest somewhere for us to go this weekend!” A question with which this editor is frequently collared, whether in the supermarket, pub or garage. Naturally, any subsequent recommendations end in disaster.

That weekend the irreplacably good head chef will have eloped with the award-winning head housekeeper; or the charming 19th-century plumbing will give in to the demands of the 21st century, to expire with a final spluttering flush. Ah, it is a dangerous business, any casual recommending of hotels to friends.

But the Ceilidh Place is different. It is, being personal for a moment, one of the handful of places to which this travel writer voluntarily elopes when the pause button requires pressing. But then of course we are all different; still, we defy you not to enjoy this little oasis for, although it is an hotel, there’s so much more to it than that. And that is why this Guide likes it so well and why other Scottish travel writers like our chum Peter Irvine who writes the justly best-selling Scotland the Best does too. But what’s it all about?

Well, it all happens in Ullapool, a clean, much-whitewashed, 'planned' Highland village stunningly situated on a promontory near the mouth of Loch Broom. Ullapool, or Ulapul in Gaelic, from the Norse for 'wool farm', is surrounded by some of the grandest scenery in the country. The village is pleasant to stroll through and has a good array of shops.

A wee bit of history

Here, over many years and in a gradual process, several cottages, one of them an old boatshed, were knocked together and today's hotel took shape in stages. Over these years improvements have led to the point where it now has such attractive features as an inspiring Bookshop, a conservatory-style Bistro, Bistro Bar, gallery-like Dining Room and a snug Parlour Bar with open fire.

There are exhibitions of paintings and crafts and, art and culture to the fore as ever, you may find drama, readings and good music – either in the hotel or at the Clubhouse venue over the road. Tip: ask for details of what’s on. They're so busy they forget to update their own website. Typical!

Overall, it’s named the Ceilidh Place for good reason: owner Jean Urquhart’s MBE was awarded for services to the arts in the Highlands and artistic life and cultural affairs are at the heart of the business. Her hotel's website is now online and, although original, it doesn’t quite do the place justice. It does tell you about the excellent and typically original new author-themed bedrooms, though. Just get on the telephone or e-mail and ask for a brochure or for the latest offers.

The hotel

is about an hour by car west of Inverness and the single word 'hotel' doesn't quite sum the place up adequately. More accurately the Ceilidh Place is a Highland inn, a coffee shop, a restaurant, bar, parlour, bookshop, bunkhouse, a spot with exhibitions, an events stage and more. And ceilidhs. And that’s not to mention the bakery.

Altogether it makes up one of Scotland’s most distinctive and hospitable hotels. It sits back from the harbour front by two streets yet has an open prospect and a slight elevation. In the summer tables are set outdoors to the front of the cottages and the Bistro and Bar provide wholesome food and refreshment to be enjoyed in the sun. The Parlour Bar is cosy and cheery, offering a grand range of drams and drinks by an open fire. The design is rugged and strong with evocative echoes of the years over which the place grew organically. A floral wallpaper you will not see; open beams and barn doors, you will.

The large, open-plan Residents’ Lounge is at the heart of the staying guests' accommodation. A well-planned space, it’s sophisticated without being posh or stuffy, and despite being pretty-well tartan free is ineffably Scottish. We do love this room. An honesty bar and pantry area make for relaxing afternoons or evenings without the hustle of rushing staff. There are games and books and magazines and alcoves in which to tuck yourself away for some peace and quiet. Often as not there’s soft Celtic music playing in the background and many’s the tape or CD purchased from the bookshop on the strength of first acquaintance in the restful spaces of the hotel. Everywhere are interesting things and whatnots and good contemporary pieces.

Plus+Point

At the front of this room is the aforementioned balcony. On a fine day – or indeed in the teeth of a winter wind – it’s a great spot from which to look out over one of the finest panoramas of Scottish village architecture, forest, loch and mountain. In winter (the hotel is open almost all year) stoves and fires glow with cheery warmth. This is one of our favourite times for a visit.

Bedrooms

The 10 Double and 3 Single Bedrooms are clean, comfortable, bright and quietly, simply decorated rooms with a character somehow rather suitable for the Highlands. Click right here to find out about the new 'books-in-rooms' feature.

Expect good beds, plenty of big white towels, and chunky big bars of Scottish fragranced glycerine soap. There are Roberts radios. Tip: Room 1 is a favourite, and the singles are great for family flexibility or the solo traveller. For less cash, the bunkhouse is available, too.

Dining

The open-plan Bistro area, complete with log stove, has a bar at one end and a timber-clad conservatory at the other. There is also a Dining Room area, often hung with exhibited paintings. You can dine anywhere and more or less at any time.

We quote now from the new all-in-one menu, a new diversion at this hotel, famed for its wholesome and healthy Highland fare: “One menu”, the man said, “just one menu”. “You can’t just have one menu”, we replied, “when we have breakfast, brunch, baking, packed lunches, dinner-at-dinner-time, lunch all day, bar-food, wines and drinks, afternoon teas, ice-creams, high teas, chittery bites, early supper, dinner or after-the-kitchen’s-closed delicious something to keep you going”. “Just the one menu” the man repeated. And – whoever that man was – they have listened to him.

Table service is now the only which way after 33 years of counter service in the bistro area. The range of food offered is wider than ever: all sorts of hot and cold drinks including smoothies; breakfast at any time (and breakfast here is always good); open sandwiches and farls from 12 ‘til 6pm; sandwiches and hot soda farls; proper home-made burgers (like venison or Ross-shire beef); hot plates including mince and tatties; salads; smaller dishes such as a Herring Platter at £5 or Cockburn’s of Dingwall’s award-winning Haggis.

For a main meal you could choose from homemade soups, meat or veggie, including splendid Cullen Skink; a range of principal meat, vegetarian or fish courses such as Marinated Lamb Chops with Paprika Potatoes and Onion Marmalade (robust, delicious) or Seared Scallops with Leek Mash and Saffron Dressing. There are cakes and desserts galore, ice-cream from Galloway, and half a dozen sound Scottish cheeses. Staff come from a variety of backgrounds and are well-chosen, often interesting characters.

Dinner in the evening can be either in the Bistro or in the Dining Room, where the atmosphere can be comfortably sophisticated.

Leisure

The hotel is in Wester Ross and all the beauty of the region is on the doorstep. Ullapool is well served with facilities. There are gardens and gorges, mountains and beaches. And - events, dear boy, events! The hotel often stages gigs and happenings, some musical, others specifically themed. Click the What's on? link at the head of the Review for latest information.

Links

We hope that you find these links helpful:

Ullapool main local website

Ullapool Golf Club locally to the fore

Caledonian Macbrayne ferries to / from Ullapool

Ullapool Fish Week annual festival in May

Ullapool Guitar Festival pulls October's strings

Ullapool Museum fascinating

Airports & Airlines page includes Inverness, 1hr by road

Corrieshalloch Gorge local beauty spot

The Reviewer’s View Gary McLean

“Some place, this. There's an outward-looking sense of Scottish artistic creativity and responsibility, and all that this brings with it. It’s about good craic, good times and good food; and all of this in a wild place. Owner Jean Urquhart is a woman of many passions. Not least among them is a very positive desire to enable visitors to Scotland and the western Highlands in particular to experience the truest culture and hospitality of the country and its Celtic edge. That and, if at all possible, a great laugh. But as we recall the late Robert Urquhart, actor and founder with Jean of the Ceilidh Place, saying many years ago... “no matter how wonderful Wester Ross is, it doesn’t exist unless you get yourself there”. So, get on with it!”

Readers’ Reviews

"Can't recommend it highly enough - we've posted brochures to a dozen friends and family this morning!! Stayed here while on honeymoon - and have booked a return visit for our first anniversary! Amazing food, huge portions (ate ourselves to a standstill), great atmosphere, love the self-service 'pantry' in the residents lounge and its honesty bar, and the good-to-find Fairtrade wines, etc." - Ruth Valentine (England), 2007

"Wonderful! No TV! I can't say how great this has been and how lovely to escape news and noise. The friendly staff, fantastic food - all locally produced with very green ethos - has been a delight. The Urquharts had great wisdom in the 1970s and have created a gem of a place." - Dr Helen C. (England), 2007

"I've been going to this place for many years now and I've just read Sarah's review (below). Amazing, she must be able to read my mind because that's exactly the same effect it has on me. I relax at the Ceildh like nowhere else on earth and all the stress of everyday life just washes away. Isn't that what a good hotel should do? It's such a special place." - Mick Hunter (Scotland), 2006

"We loved the ethos of this hotel. It's very relaxing, comfortable and generous in every way. Beautiful lounge with piano (will bring my music next time!) and although we didn't use it we loved the idea of the 'honesty bar'. Despite the fact that the hotel (unusually) ran out of hot water one night, it's still probably the nicest one I've ever stayed in. Books in rooms terrific, too!" - Lynne Bulmer & Simon Hurding (England), 2006

"GREAT atmosphere and staff, food and room. Bathtowels a bit small. Otherwise all splendid. Scotland is FAB." M. A. B. (England), 2006

"Ceilidh Place is a charming hotel: small, welcoming, well run. Special features include a comfortable sitting room with guest pantry, first class food, ample space for guests to mingle. Much scope for really unwinding." - H. R. (Spain), 2006

"I first came here for a cup of tea 17 years ago and am now a (not regular enough) 'resident'. I love everything about this hotel, it's warmth, quirkiness, friendliness, tolerance of the behaviour of my dog (who is spoilt, indulged and loved to his heart's content), the food (breakfast is AMAZING - French Toast better than I have had anywhere in this world) is varied, well-cooked and the baking lush and fresh. This is my bolt-hole from the world, a sea of calm, warmth and affection and intellectual stimulation. I have spent some of the happiest days of my life here, you don't just visit the Ceilidh Place, you feel entirely as if you were in the home of good friends. Ullapool is magical and beautiful beyond belief. I am happiest in the upstairs lounge with a glass of wine (or Orkney Dark Island Ale)and some carrot cake, reading a book, calmed by the only 'piped' music I have ever liked and looking up the glen at the most glorious of views. This is a very different sort of hotel, absolutely not a 5 star luxury hotel, but still a place to be cocooned come rain, wind, snow, sleet, storm and the many glorious warm sunny days. The staff greet you as a friend and the constantly-changing 'gap-year' international travellers who are passing through as staff are always a delight. I cannot think of a place I'd rather stay, at any time of the year, and I always hate to leave. I'd rather other people did not discover the Ceilidh Place, but I did, so I strongly recommend it. Go there and go with the flow - there is always something to do, but only if you want to! This hotel is always good for my soul and I've been saying that for years, it is a testament to the Urquharts' skill and imagination, and for me, especially to Effie and her team. I can't wait to go back and it's only 3 weeks since I left. How long is a decent amount of time to wait before heading 700 miles north again?" - Sarah Williamson (England), 2006

“Sit in the lounge with a good book, a mug of tea and drift away... The most wonderful place to be.” – Stewart Taylor (Scotland), 2005

Awards / Look & Book Box™ status This hotel has been reviewed by the Guide and any HotelReview™ awards are detailed above. The hotel is optionally not graded by the Scottish Tourist Board. The hotel is a Member of HotelReview™ | Scotland so the Look & Book Box™ features are ONLINE.

Your opinion? There’s a link to a Reader’s Review form at the top and left side of this page. It only takes a moment to send the Guide your views via the small panel that will pop-up. You can be as brief or as fulsome as you wish! Your views go to the Editor, who will acknowledge your response within a few days. He may edit feedback. Reports do not go directly online. You can be named or remain anonymous. At Scotland’s most-read hotel guide we greatly value the tremendous feedback we have from our readers. Thanks!

Disability Information: Bedrooms are upstairs (no lift) but the open-plan dining and bistro areas are on the ground floor. Please call the hotel for further details.

Ghàidhlig: Bidh Ghàidhlig ri fhaighinn an seo a dh’aithghearr! Tapa leibh.

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