Portpatrick is in Wigtownshire, the eastern part of scenic Galloway on the southwest coast. A hammerhead-shaped peninsula called the Rhinns of Galloway includes Scotland’s southernmost point... and Portpatrick on the western side, looking out to Ireland. The village, clustered around hillsides and harbour, is truly charming and remains completely unspoilt, like much of this delightful area. If you’re hoping to find some guaranteed peace and tranquility and enjoy a part of Scotland that’s less travelled and touristy, then look no further: Portpatrick and the surrounding areas such as the nearby Mull of Galloway, Luce Bay and Galloway Forest Park are havens for those wishing to escape the hustle and bustle.

It is here the light is so true that artist and photographers cannot believe their luck… not far away is Kirkcudbright, Scotland’s colourful artists’ town. Walking and cycling remains pleasurable on the quiet country roads and lanes where there’s no air pollution and it is here that sea birds wheel in the skies and puffins skim the cliffs. The fields range from being multi-coloured quilts of wild flowers to arable land or pastures for the local cattle. The people are welcoming and friendly, and life is lived at a distinctly slower pace.

Rickwood is situated above the village and has magnificent views to the south and southwest, out over the harbour below. The setting’s idyllic and as well as wonderful views across Portpatrick there’s the panorama of the Irish Sea and beyond. Fred and Maggie Findlay, owners, explained to us that on a clear day the Mountains of Mourne in Ireland can be seen, that the Isle of Man is also visible, and Cumbria, too, in England. Taken with Scotland, at your feet, and 'Heaven above', that makes the famous 'five Kingdoms view' which can be seen from this coast.

The hotel was originally built as home for the factor of the nearby Dunskey Estate in the early 1900s, although there’s something of the air of the 1930s about the elegant architecture. Once known as the Factor’s House it has been Rickwood House Hotel since 1959. It’s a large and sunny house with walls painted a perfect, pristine white and it has a relaxing Conservatory to the east side where guests recline on comfy seating, perhaps having a cuppa and some homemade shortbread. There are beautifully maintained, large gardens to the front and sides of the house… where, wonderfully, garden benches are strategically placed to catch the day’s sun and best view. A mature cherry blossom dominates the garden front alongside pampas grasses and flowering tubs at the doorway.

Room rates are from just £26 to £37.50pp bed and full breakfast: sound value. Fred and Maggie are most welcoming, warm people, and care very much about what they are offering at Rickwood. This is perfectly apparent. They work hard, managing the day to day business of offering up this handsome house and real Scottish hospitality to an assortment of different guests who, in turn, often become friends, destined to return. So if hospitality matters to you, consider this house which the tourist board system may rate as a 3-star guest house but which offers a 5-star welcome.

The bedrooms have been updated recently and the results are nice. Choose from 6 individual, varied Double and Twin Rooms or the Family Room. Two rooms are situated on the ground floor of the hotel, and all are equipped with TV, radio alarm clock, hairdryer plus tea / coffee making facilities (the tea and coffee supplied are all FairTrade products: excellent). Some rooms also have DVD players. The Family Room (upstairs) has recently experienced the ‘Fred and Maggie makeover’: it’s spacious with a very large bathroom with separate shower. This room can be utilized in many different ways by adding a bed here or there depending on your requirements. The décor is fresh and pleasing to the eye, and the views spectacular.

The large Factor’s Suite and was once the master bedroom. Today, the furniture is crafted from reclaimed timber and includes a huge bed. It has a comfortable seating area with coffee table with vase of fresh flowers. As in the other rooms, well-chosen prints by contemporary Scots artists feature. Bath robes are supplied, adding a touch of luxury, and the bathroom also has a walk in shower, is spacious, and well designed. The room is tastefully decorated with clean lines throughout, and boasts not one but two sea views. This is the room you’d request for that special treat you’ve been promising yourself… you know, that one you deserve.

This season the Guide stayed in room 3 which has fantastic views over the village below. The theme here is ‘the sea’ and there are various artefacts like driftwood, pebbles and even a wooden seagull to create a holiday feel. Blue and white colours are coordinated with bed linen and drapes. The bathroom has an overbath shower. We did like the white fold-away chair that our reviewer used to sit in and watch the Irish Sea lap into the harbour down below. Elsewhere, one of the ground floor Twin Rooms has also recently been upgraded and has lovely reclaimed furniture plus two brown leather tub seats which match leather headboards. There’s a large bathroom with wallpaper designed by Linda Barker plus a separate shower. The room is spacious and has a light, airy feel to it and boasts two sea-view windows dressed with neutral drapes.

Dinner is informal and served in the Dining Room downstairs which has views to the harbour below. The room has a country cottage feel to it with a Welsh pine dresser with matching sideboard running along one wall; tables are covered with cream tablecloths with matching napkins. Examples of Highland Stoneware and other interesting ceramics, some from Fred and Maggie’s travels, line the two windows. Dinner is served quite early at 6.30pm, being ordered in the morning to give chef Maggie an idea of what to prepare. As this is a small, rural operation, this is perfectly fine. Usually there is a set menu on offer and requests can be accommodated.

On the night of our stay we enjoyed a starter of Parma Ham with Melon topped with Parmesan Cheese; then a main course of Fillet of Cod on a Bed of Sautéed Leeks and Bacon with a Lemon Cream Sauce, accompanied by a selection of roast veg and potatoes. Dessert was an indulgent Cranachan and Raspberries, followed by a cheeseboard which included some locally-produce mature cheddar and fresh fruit. Everything was home cooked and well presented. Fred was waiter for the night and is well suited for the role, being decidedly amiable and chatty. The meal was delicious and unfussy, as is often the difference with home cooked food, and was plentiful. Shortbread (home made by Maggie, of course) is served with coffee and this rounds off a delicious meal perfectly.

Wine is available by the glass, half litre or litre and is very reasonably priced at just £10.50 per litre. Liqueurs and spirits are also keenly priced, ranging from £1.50 to £1.90 for malt whisky or brandy. (You'd never guess that Fred was once a bank manager!)

A breakfast buffet awaits you, offering assorted fruit juices, yoghurts, fresh fruit and cereals. If you would like to sample some of Maggie’s traditionally-cooked porridge then this must be asked for the previous evening as she soaks the oatmeal overnight. There’s also a full cooked breakfast of bacon, eggs, sausage, mushrooms, tomato and black pudding all served with a round of toast and tea or coffee, or if you would like something a bit lighter, Maggie will prepare your eggs just as you like, scrambled, boiled, fried or poached. Smoked fish, including salmon, from the nearby Colfin Smokehouse is also on the go. We hear that Clarissa Dickson Wright, one of the famous ‘fat ladies’ cooks, once stayed and although she missed dinner she did experience Maggie’s traditionally cooked oatmeal porridge the following morning and thought it “especially delicious”. We're pleased to award a BreakfastRosette™.

The hotel has no leisure facilities of its own. The local area offers a wide selection of things to do and see – many of national significance: please see the links below. From botanical gardens to wild landscapes, hillwalking and cycling to visiting heritage sites and festivals, in all seasons Galloway offers real choice. Portpatrick is a charming base.

Arthur McGough says…
“The beautiful, natural area in and around Portpatrick is a joy to visit. The words relaxing, peaceful, tranquility, and captivating all spring to mind when I think of my stay in this most charming part of Scotland, and although VisitScotland have awarded the Rickwood Hotel a 3-star rating, I shall happily stick my neck out and say the quality of accommodation and hospitality on offer is more deserving of a 4-star award. Certainly we at this Guide recommend Rickwood without hesitation.”

Norman Cochrane Scotland, 2007 writes...
“As a small hotel, the best I’ve ever stayed in. Using the old saying, you arrive as a stranger and leave as a friend. The owners Maggie and Fred Findlay are wonderful. I would never think of staying anywhere else if in Partpatrick!”

Mr & Mrs G.H. 2007 writes...
“A real gem in the west of Scotland’s crown! Excellent hosts, food and accommodation.”

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REVIEW STATUS & MERIT AWARDS This establishment has now been fully reviewed by the Guide and any HotelReviewScotland.com™ Merit Awards will show above, beneath the address details. We also list the latest ratings and gradings for this business from other guides and organisations. One or more of our experienced reviewer team has stayed at this establishment, spent time with the management, and the Guide is receiving reader and industry input from one or all of: online Reader’s Reviews; Comment Postcards; and Voting in The Scottish Hotels of the Year Awards. All entries are carefully monitored. The lead star grading has been awarded by the Scottish Tourist Board / VisitScotland. As the hotel is a Full Member of HotelReview™ Scotland the Look & Book Box™ links are LIVE.

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